There are few if any Australian wine regions that can quite match the majestic beauty and splendour of Western Australia’s Margaret River. First there are the pristine white beaches that stretch up and down the coast. Behind the sand dunes lie rolling hills. It is a place that draws people from around the world, such is the mix of natural beauty, attractions and the enviable lifestyle.
But the sailing in Margaret River has not always been so smooth. In the mid 60’s when the first ideas were floated of grapes being grown here, the area was in a slump. The once popular timber industry had almost disappeared. The locals were looking for something to help bring them out of the economic dip they had fallen in to. Then along came Dr John Gladstones, whom reckoned that Margaret River might be a special place to grow grapes. Soon plantings began and the area would be changed forever.
First Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, then Di and Kevin Cullen at Cullen and finally Bill Pannell at Moss Wood put experimental vineyards in the ground, wines from which quickly proved the areas potential. The Margaret River now has over 120 producers and is one of our greatest Australian fine wine areas. Local names such as Moss Wood, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate sit comfortably among the greatest Australian producers. Their wines are highly sought after both locally and internationally.
One of the region’s most enduring qualities is the vitality of the locals. The Margaret River has much to offer. The winemakers aspire to not only make wines that match up to the best from Australia but stand up as great wines of the world. You see it in the eyes of producers such as Keith Mugford from Moss Wood, Mike Peterkin of Pierro and Vanya Cullen of Cullen. There is a great feeling of confidence that never seems cocky. And they back it up with brilliance in each and every bottle.
In terms of quality, while the old firm of Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Vasse Felix, Cullen, Cape Mentelle, Howard Park and Pierro still are generally responsible for the region’s greatest wines, underneath there is a growing band of producers knocking on the door. Woodlands and the revitalised Xanadu come to mind as two wineries with great potential. Perhaps the most exciting of such ventures, and one that is quickly rising to be among Margaret River’s best, is Voyager Estate.
The original vines of Voyager Estate were first planted in 1978, under the name of Freycinet Estate. In 1991, these vineyards were bought and significantly expanded on through the addition of three adjoining properties. This was a masterstroke because the area has since become known as ‘Golden triangle of Chardonnay’ due to the quality of the wines from producers such as Voyager Estate, Leeuwin Estate and Devil’s Lair.
Driving through Margaret River, it is impossible to miss Voyager Estate. South of the township and closely located to Leeuwin Estate, it is marked by a huge flagpole as well as the large Cape Dutch style building which sits amongst magnificent grounds. While the built environment is stylish, it is what’s in the local vineyards and winery that impresses most of all. What is clear here is that in all facets of the Voyager Estate operation everything is done with perfection. And no one better exemplifies this than winemaker Cliff Royle
I first met Cliff before a tasting of some barrels that would end up in his Cabernet Merlot blend from the highly acclaimed 2007 vintage, and he was a little nervous. Not because he didn’t believe in the wines – he wasn’t ready to let his wines out into the big, wide world in case they didn’t put their best foot forward,. Well he needn’t have worried because they were absolutely superb and a real treat, although the 2007 vintage won’t be released for at least another couple of years.
Wine from Voyager Estate include three absolute knockouts. The first is their renowned Chardonnay from the icy Margaret River vintage of 2006. While reds have been hard for some in 2006, the whites are superb with intense fruit and acidity. The Voyager Chardonnay 2006 ($35) has a powerful fruity and youthful palate with a slight creamy complexity and brilliant length. It is one of the greatest 2006 Margaret River Chardonnays. Perhaps my favourite of the current lineup though, as least for drinking now is the 2005 Shiraz ($35). Generally the Margaret River doesn’t make standout Shiraz, but this is a wonderful example of dense cool climate Shiraz with clove and blackberry fruit lifted by hints of violets and licorice. In the mouth there is such a youthful feel and plenty of vitality that it will only get better with time. The nest known wines from Voyager Estate is the Cabernet Merlot ($60), with the 2004 release one of their best so far. This wine is really built for the long term with gravelly cassis and blackberry fruit rounded out nicely with some subtle notes of olive and oak. In the mouth there is great generosity of fruit that is currently bound up in its significant structure. But in ten to fifteen years it will be a fabulous drink.